Friday 27 March 2009

Fun with the villagers.

We arrived in Nayabas just before sunset and The Captain skillfully managed to arrange for us to sleep there that night. We were met by all these wonderful and super curious people. I guess we are quite a sight. It was pretty special sleeping under the stars in the ruralest of villages and waking up to 16 people staring at you. So was the fresh chai they brought us in bed.

Rob wearing his neighbor's headgear. Shame the mustache did not come with.

Nusrat and I with the crazy grandmother. We gave her a scarf and she gave us orange scarves in return. As it turned out, she did not like the scarf we gave her. She actually had her mind set on getting Nus's watch. The whole thing turned into an awkward negotiation with granny who was even willing to give back the initial present in exchange for the watch. Very happy I did not speak Hindi. Poor Nus.


When we first met the grandmother we had to go on the roof as she was not allowed to come down and join the men downstairs. As a greeting and to show respect for the elders I had to touch her feet. Not knowing I did not have to physically touch them (like a hand kiss without touching) I gently stroked them. She seemed to enjoy it though. After this bonding experience we were the guests of honor in the female corner and watched the fresh roti being made. We also got treated to some awesome dancing and singing about peacocks in a tree and were interrogated about why we were not married yet.


The cherry on the cake was that I was invited to smoke the pipe with granny (this was all the night before the bargaining episode, and the realization she was in fact pretty nuts). The pipe had no stem, only a hole in the bottom and some burning coals on top, the homegrown organic tobacco being hidden somewhere in the middle. You had to wrap your hands around it and then suck your little lungs out. With about 25 girls and women watching me I tried to smoke this contraption gracefully but of course failed. I actually managed to drop one of the coals on my village pants, setting myself on fire. All 25 girls and women then made it their personal mission to put out this fire. Whoops! Needless to say the story traveled fast through the village and was blown way out of proportion, the rumor being that if they had not saved my life, I would have burned to death. Needless to say, I avoided the pipe for the remainder of the visit.

Nicks head proved to be quite a novelty.

The men watch in awe as The Captain, who is also an arm wrestling champion, lays down the law on his opponent. He was 12.


Christian also made friends in the village.

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